Saturday, December 3, 2011

The Best--and Easiest--Way to Make Short Ribs

This past week, Julia Moskin of The New York Times featured my newest cookbook, Home Cooking with Jean-Georges, in an article in the Dining section. She writes, "the ingredient that flies most freely in his kitchen seems to be konbu, the dried seaweed that gives many Japanese dishes a briny depth." Maybe she exaggerated a bit, but I do love konbu. It's an amazing natural source of umami, that great savory sixth taste.

I apprenticed and trained in French kitchens where we always seared meat first before braising--a technique I still love and practice--but I discovered a few year back that konbu delivers that same meaty depth of flavor without the hassle of browning. I have a powerful hood for my LaCanche stove at home, but whenever I sear meat, I still need to open the kitchen windows to keep the room from filling with smoke.

My recipe for short ribs requires little more than throwing together all the ingredients in the oven. And the konbu gives the whole dish really rich flavor. (Note though that searing also gives you texture. I want these short ribs fall-off-the-bone tender, so I don't really miss the sear in this dish.) I love serving these ribs over glazed parsnips.
Now that it's finally chilly here in New York, I can't want to make this warming braise for my family on the weekends. I hope you enjoy it too.

Friday, November 25, 2011

The Best Restaurants in China to The Best Meal in America

Well, I'm thrilled to say that Jean Georges Shanghai ranked number 2 in the 2011-2012 Miele Guide to the best restaurants in China. In a population of over 1.3 billion people with countless restaurants spanning 3.7 million square miles, this is high praise.

When Michael Graves designed the room, he fused the romanticism of the old French quarter in Shanghai with a modern aesthetic. I love doing the same with the food here--bringing together classic French flavors and modern Asian influences.

My talented team of Shanghai chefs turn out great dishes like crunchy tiger prawns with avocado basil puree and pineapple juice. I was there a few weeks ago with my corporate executive chef Greg Brainin to teach them a new slate of dishes for the season. As always, we're incorporating local ingredients into global flavors. We've had a great run at this restaurant since it's opening and it just keeps getting better.

Now that I'm back home in New York, I just finished celebrating Thanksgiving with my family. It's one of the best family meals of the year. I get to put twists on American classics (like foie gras in my stuffing) and just spend the day cooking and eating with my family in the country after we watch the Macy's parade outside the windows of my flagship restaurant.

This year, I prepared one of my favorite fall side dishes: Butternut Squash with Balsamic and Chile
Panko Crumbs. The combination of flavors may sound unusual, but the sweet-tangy-hot blend is perfect with turkey. You can find this recipe--and one for the turkey sandwich I'm making today with leftovers--in my new book, Home Cooking with Jean-Georges.
Happy Thanksgiving!

Butternut Squash with Balsamic and Chile Panko Crumbs
Serves: 8
• 1 large butternut squash (about 2 ½ pounds)
• 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
• 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup panko crumbs
• 1 ½ teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
• ½ teaspoon crushed red chile flakes
• ¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Bring a large stockpot of water to a boil. Add the whole squash and cook, partially covered, until tender, about 45 minutes. (A knife will pierce the flesh very easily.) Drain, cool slightly, then remove and discard the stem and peel. Reserve the seeds, removing and discarding the strings.

Transfer the flesh to a large serving dish and mash with a fork into an even layer. Drizzle the vinegar and 2 tablespoons of the oil over the squash, and season with salt and pepper.

Heat 3 tablespoons of the squash seeds in a large skillet over medium-low heat until dry. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil and a pinch of salt and toast, tossing occasionally. When the seeds begin to pop, partially cover the pan. Continue toasting until golden brown, about 3 minutes, then transfer to a plate.

In the same skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat, then toss in the crumbs. When well coated, stir in the thyme, chile, and ¼ teaspoon salt. Toast, tossing occasionally, until golden brown and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the cheese and toasted seeds. Spread the crumb mixture over the squash in an even layer and serve immediately.

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

How to Get a Reservation at ABC Kitchen


That's what Deepak Chopra and I laughed about last week at the launch party for my new book, Home Cooking with Jean Georges. To put a spin on the classic book party, I teamed up with Deepak Homebase at ABC Carpet and Home to have a conversation with Deepak about food, sustainability, and the joy of eating.

Before and after the talk, I celebrated my book launch with my family and friends the way I like best--with great food and drink. My chefs Greg Brainin and Dan Kluger prepared an amazing spread of dishes and cocktails from the book and from ABC Kitchen. It was amazing seeing my whole family (including my infant grandson Olivier) and so many friends--old and new--come together.


But back to the question at hand: the secret to scoring a reservation at ABC Kitchen. (Apparently, Deepak gets tons of requests every day.) I'm thrilled with how popular ABC is, but I want it to be a place where anyone can eat, so I always keep tables open for walk-in customers. All around the bar, we serve the full menu every night to walk-in diners. As with getting a reservation, it's easier to get a walk-in table if you come earlier in the evening.

The other way to get a taste of ABC Kitchen is to cook from my new cookbook. I created the recipes for my family up in our country home, where I cook simple, sustainable meals using the freshest ingredients from local farmers' markets. I was so happy with those dishes, I put them on the menu at ABC. What I want both the restaurant and the book to do is to inspire you to eat and cook dishes that highlight the beauty of seasonal ingredients. It's that easy.

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Happy Thanksgiving!

I haven’t had a chance to post in a while, but am happy to be back and to wish you a happy Thanksgiving.

Since opening The Mark Restaurant and ABC Kitchen in New York, I’ve been thrilled to see them become neighborhood favorites where visitors feel at home too.

Just a few weeks ago, I opened another new restaurant, Fern, at the St. Regis in Bahia Beach, Puerto Rico. As at my other places, I’ve created a menu and space that reflects the surroundings and culture. I especially love cooking the local catch and gathering beautiful produce from regional farmers and gardeners.

Between those openings, I’ve been traveling the globe, training and retraining my chefs and staff. I’ve also had a chance to pursue other projects, like writing another cookbook. Also, I’ve been lucky enough to work with my beautiful wife Marja on her television series that explores her Korean heritage.

Even in recounting the past year, I’m reminded of how grateful I am to get to do what I love. I’ve been a chef for years, and I’m still excited to go to work everyday and create the best dining experiences possible.

It goes without saying that I’m thankful for my family and I can’t wait for our feast tonight and our time together this weekend.

I’m also thankful for my restaurant family. Most of them are at our restaurants all day today (including my son Cedric and daughter Louise), apart from their own families and friends. I appreciate how tirelessly they’re working to give our diners a delicious Thanksgiving meal that feels as warm and comforting as home. A special thank you to the staff at my flagship restaurant, who are helping our breakfast crowd enjoy the Macy’s parade early this morning.

Happy Thanksgiving to all!