I was surprised by Adam Platt’s review of Matsugen in New York Magazine. On each of his five visits, he seemed to enjoy the meals he shared with his dining companions. (Yes, we did recognize him each time. He’s quite tall and hard to miss.)
It seems he may have misunderstood the concept behind Matsugen—it’s commitment to pure, authentic Japanese cooking. Even in warming up the 66 space, we adhered to minimalist Japanese restaurant design concepts. Because Matsugen is not like any other restaurant in New York City, it can’t be compared to other restaurants, including those in Koreatown. (I love Korean food and the hotpot dishes in Koreatown, but it’s a whole other cuisine.) It can’t even be categorized with other Japanese restaurants in the city. There are no jalapenos, no California rolls.
In this style of Japanese cooking, which the Matsushita brothers execute exceptionally well, the ingredients shine with clean flavors that come from expert preparations. Our wagyu beef is carefully sliced for cooking in simmering water, shabu shabu-style, at the table so that our diners can enjoy the meat just after it’s cooked. The housemade ponzu dipping sauce brings out the meat’s subtle richness. (It’s definitely not “steak” and shouldn’t be thought of as such.) As with the wagyu, we source (and pay a hefty price for) the very best ingredients, including the sea urchin we get daily from Japan, which has a more complex, funkier flavor than the California sea urchin most other Japanese restaurants serve.
Matsugen’s dishes are not spicy, not aggressively seasoned, and they’re not meant to be. Everything on the menu builds upon the very best of what the Matsushita brothers have served in Japan. I was taken by their cooking when I first ate at their Tokyo restaurant years ago and I still am today here in New York. I trust that other diners will be too.
Tuesday, August 19, 2008
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8 comments:
I love Matsugen....i have eaten there three times now and find the experience extraordinary. The quality of the produce and preparation is superb and not being a huge fan of spicy foods, this is the best Eastern cuisine for my palette. It has all the sophistication i have come to expect of a Jean Georges restaurant. The presentation is unlike anything this town has seen, but the simplicity, quality and consistency make this place an instant classic. And a wonderful and necessary addition to NYC.
Hi! I see that you are really interested in Japanese food. I'm Japanese living in Spain, and i love the food! now, i'm doing a project about their gastronomy and it's unbelievable. their dishes are simple but really tasty. it's amazing how they cook, and i'm really glad that you are so involved in that.
could you tell me, what do you like about japanese food? or your interest about it?
thank you.
my e-mail is: mai_169_693@hotmail.com
I dined at Matsugen on Friday,and was completely blown away. The food and the concept are both excellent. The wagyu shabu shabu has completely spoiled me!
I wish I was in NYC so I could dine there. I saw you today on Martha, except I tuned in too late to actually watch your segment, my apologies, I'm sure you were amazing.
I have yet to dine at Matsugen. However, in January, Kyle cooked Jean Georges' Restaurant cuisine in my suite at the Trump International, and I was highly impressed with his talent, knowledge, focus, passion, and needless to say with our marvelous dinner.
Over summer, I was privileged to enjoy in suite Jean Georges dining again. Kyle wasn't there. I asked for him and was told he's working at Matsugen. Our two new chefs were very good too though.
I wish Kyle the best of luck.
If the kitchen staff is as passionate and devoted as Kyle, I'm certain the restaurant will do very well.
I believe Mr. Frank Bruini shared a similar experience and wrote about it in the NY Times, "Meals by Elevator... " or similar title. I don't know if he's written about Matsugen yet.
As much as we like, when we cook, we can't please everyone. And when something is new or different, people are quick to criticize. To each his own. I dine at Jean Georges & Jo Jo, and I did at 66 as well, and am looking forward to dine at Matsugen.
My son is attending the Culinary Institute of American, and has a project due on you, and a wish to peek in at the JG kitchen this coming weekend. I don't know if he's seen this site, but will direct him here nevertheless.
Nice site - nice way to keep in touch with the public.
All the best.
Teal Rizzo
I now see in a previous post Bruini did review Matsugen.
And he liked it.
Well.. there you go.
Congratulations on Jean Georges' Michelin 3 star rating. I have always loved this place for the food and how comfortable and elegant the dining experience is. May Jean Georges have another 10 years of continued success.
I have not read the New York Magazine review (not that I would expect much), but I was taken to Matsugen for the first time last night and it was phenomenal.
I've been to Japan 17 times and eaten at the very best places, including full Kaiseki Ryori in Kyoto Ryokan. Matsugen was equal if not better than most I have had in Japan.
I think Jean Georges comments are right on -- the style of this place is pure Japanese and that may not suit the taste of the average New York Magazine reporter,, who wants alot of zing and bells and whistles. That's not saying its not delicious -- it is! But in a pure flavor, individual ingredient way. The products are top quality and it shows. I'm going back
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