Spice Market

By now, many of you have probably read Frank Bruni’s review of Spice Market in the New York Times. Even though I’m glad he enjoyed the restaurant’s ambience and some of its dishes, I’m disappointed by the review. Of course, Bruni offered some insightful comments about his visits, and the feedback is always appreciated. There are few things I dislike more than sloppiness, and I’ve already begun to work on improving every aspect of Spice Market. As with all of my restaurants, I want to offer great dining experiences and continually work to uphold the highest standards of food and service.

I’m sorry that Bruni and his guests didn’t have a better time, but I make no apologies for opening Spice Market or any of my other restaurants. Like each one, Spice Market was conceived of and built as a stand-alone restaurant. In fact, it was a deeply personal project: I spent years cooking in Asia and ate at the fantastic open-air markets every night after work. I simply wanted to share those delicious dishes with fellow New Yorkers. When the Starwood Hotel group approached me about opening Spice Markets in their hotels around the world, I was happy to have the opportunity to share those dishes with diners in other cities.



The food at Spice Market is excellent—and I intend to keep making it better and better. Besides, I can personally attest to the fact that there’s no better place to eat well and have a great time. After all, it’s where Marja and I got married!

Setting the Record Straight

On Monday afternoon, I began receiving a flood of emails and phone calls: Wow! Cooking for four living presidents? That’s amazing!; How wonderful to cook for Obama! Will Michelle be there too?

I had no idea what my friends were talking about.

It turns out that Crain’s—and subsequently all of the food blogs—reported the following:

Award-winning chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten has a big assignment tonight. He is cooking dinner at the United Nations for three past presidents, Jimmy Carter, George H.W. Bush and Bill Clinton, as well as the current commander-in-chief, Barack Obama.
A source says security is so tight that only the famous chef and an assistant are allowed into the kitchen.
What’s on the menu? Halibut, which was flown into the city today.

For the record, I did not cook at the United Nations for President Obama or former presidents George H.W. Bush and Jimmy Carter. It would be an honor to do so and I’d be thrilled to prepare a meal for them anytime or to host them in any of my restaurants.

I did, however, have the privilege of cooking for former president Bill Clinton in the home of United Nations Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon at a dinner party that included Mayor Bloomberg. As I understand it, Obama was invited, but couldn’t make it. (I imagine he was busy on Monday and Tuesday following Iran’s elections.) I went only with my corporate executive chef Greg Brainin because we were cooking for a small group.

The halibut was, in fact, flown into New York on Monday morning by my fantastic fish supplier, Ingrid Bengis. At 5:30 p.m. on Sunday, the halibut was line-caught off the coast of Maine. Ingrid picked it up from the fisherman, packed it in seaweed and ice, drove to Boston, hopped on a plane to New York, and took the E train to my restaurant. Thank you, Ingrid.

I wanted to prepare a fantastic meal for Clinton while ensuring that I met his dietary guidelines. We composed a passed appetizer of watermelon and goat cheese, and followed with my “27 vegetables” first course. I got the best vegetables I could find at the Greenmarket, blanched each in color order (fennel, favas, asparagus, artichokes, carrots, etc.), then dressed them all with the flavorful cooking liquid, basil oil, lemon juice, a dozen herbs, and beautiful edible flowers. It’s like eating a garden—delicious!

The unbelievably fresh halibut was served with honshimeiji mushrooms and shallots in a tomato-lemongrass broth and drizzled with mushroom “syrup.” Whole-grain couscous came on the side. For dessert, I composed a red berry soup with all the cherries, raspberries, blueberries, and strawberries, and topped it with strawberry sorbet.

I still don’t know how that other story was reported, but these are the facts. Bon appetit!